oc1 rebuild....hardware questions

fire4effect

Patching up a beat up OC1 and I'm almost finished with the prep work before painting (fairing and sanding). In the mean time, I've started working on the hardware. Here are my questions:

Where is the best place to get cables? tried Lowes...HD, but not the same guage.
Rudder was bent...anyone have better idea then sticking it in a vice and applying steady pressure
The hole in one pedal where the cable attaches is almost worn through. Should I just drill a new hole lower? I have a mig welder, but don't have the aluminum attachment. Is there any other way to add material to reinforce the current hole?

Submitted by fire4effect on Tue, 02/01/2011 - 12:40pm

Jim

If you're doing the full rebuild you might as well get new pedals, and a new rudder. It's pretty hard to straighten out a stainless steel shaft. For rudder cables, you can use the same ones on a bicycle (they're made of kevlar sometimes nowdays) or get stainless from a marine supply place.

#1 Tue, 02/01/2011 - 4:02pm

Kileki

I had a buddy just change the cables in his Kaimana, and he got all the necessary cables and equipment from West Marine.

#2 Tue, 02/01/2011 - 6:47pm

lilo

if your tight on money you can always drill out both pedals. for the shaft, heat it up with a propane torch till it gets super hot and then it'll be easier to straighten it out. yup, westmarine get everything for your cable needs, but you gotta get one crimper for the sleeves. they got that too, in the fishing dept. cable, sleeves, crimper might be cheaper at POP. good-luck!

#3 Tue, 02/01/2011 - 9:36pm

onnopaddle

Fire,
If the material looks solid. you can re-drill but go higher not lower if can. Some boats simply used a little stopper sleeve @ the end of the cable ... You could always slip a washer between it and the pedal if you are really out of drillable real estate.
1/16" SS cable is good for control lines and will probably slip through easier than the soft kevlar / spectra lines.
You do not need specialty crimping too for this size but there is a real nice one for about 26 from West Marine that you can use forever for 2 more larger sizes where you NEED the correct tool. Use thimbles on all the loops you make and double nico press sleeves for extra safe and to cover the little tail that you should leave on the first one anyway. Skip the shrink tubing.
Not sure where/how much the post is bent but unless the rudder is completely split or you feel like its gonna, you can cold bend the post back if its that little tweak right @ the blade itself Put the whole post in the vice right all the way 'till right next to the bend and gently pull on the blade.... Just be careful and go a little @ a time +++ check as you go by putting it back on boat. If the rudder is split/splitting @ the post root you need to bond it back together with epoxy. I would do this before bending if the blade seems really split so the straightening does not make it worse and ONLY if the bend on the shaft is not down below the top of the blade. If the shaft is somehow bent in the middle you can squeeze it with a good vice and use conduit or whatever to bend it back without having to crank on the rudder.
If using heat and it goes too far down into the blade it might debond the rudder blade or create a gap for moisture to migrate down into and the blade to start wiggling within this new space.
aloha,
pog

#4 Wed, 02/02/2011 - 8:13am

fire4effect

Thanks all,
Just went to West Marine at lunch. They didn't have the exact size I needed...I brought in a sample...all they had was 3/32 1x19 which was pretty stiff and 1/16 7x19 which is seemed too flexible. He gave me 1in sample of the 3/32 to see if it will fit in the tube..they both will run about $30...a bit more then I was expecting.
I like the idea of just using a washer and stopper sleeve. They didn't have a crimping tool.
As fare as the rudder, it is bent where the rudder meet the hull.
How do I post pics on here?

#5 Wed, 02/02/2011 - 12:44pm

kayaker 1

Art Nelson on Kona Street has the SS cable and all the accessories at reasonable prices

#6 Wed, 02/02/2011 - 9:19pm

fire4effect

Here is a link to the pics of what the OC1 looked like when I got it and some of the repairs I've done so far. The front mounting stud of the ama was broken, 2ft of the bow was redone and various patches of suspect quality. I sanded the hull to see which repairs needed to be fixed. Most were solid structurally, but cosmetically crap. I did need to fix 3 of them. The ama is fixed, it just needs some fairing and sanding. BTW...this was my first time repairing fiberglass so I probably made a few mistakes =)...I'm going for the "10ft look".
In the pics you can see how much the rudder is bent. On the Rt pedal the cable has worn through part of the hole.
https://picasaweb.google.com/mcbalagtas/Naia_before?authkey=Gv1sRgCK31j…

#7 Wed, 02/02/2011 - 9:19pm

E7M

Looks pretty good so far getting all the repairs going on that Naia.
I second putting the rudder post in a vice and slowly and carefully forcing it straight.
You could always get some J-B Weld to fill the pedal hole and re-drill it after it hardens. To reinforce it, you could also J-B Weld a stainless steel washer on the backside.
The smaller gauge 1/16" SS cable is what you might want to think about using. Even though it may seem too flexible to you compared to what was/is currently on your OC-1, you don't want it to be too stiff. It should flex so it goes in and out without kinking or cutting the guide tubing.
As for some crimpers, check the Fishing department section at Wal-Mart, K-Mart or even Sports Authority as I know I've seen the same types that I use to crimp the copper sleeves. The below are the two types of crimper/swager tools I have.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
And for those that keep mentioning Hawaii stores to get the stuff he needs, I believe he is in California.

#8 Wed, 02/02/2011 - 11:25pm

onnopaddle

Didn't have time to look it up today ...
Here is the little tool.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?prod…
Works great and lasts ... Change the stock bolts to grade 8 and grease the treads for best life and performance..
Stick with the 1/16" wire, no need worry about flex when you are pulling on it ...
Ducking for cover on that last one : )
aloha,
pog

#9 Wed, 02/02/2011 - 11:47pm

Kileki

Dude, it's looking good Alfred!
-Tyler

#10 Thu, 02/03/2011 - 4:12am

ryim

outrigger connections in kailua sells the full cable set for an oc-1 or oc-2 for like 30 bucks. the only thing you need to buy is the crimper. all of the metal parts and little sections of heat shrink are included

#11 Thu, 02/03/2011 - 9:20am