Oahu Impression
So what exactly happened to that canoe? Or is it just several lifetimes of accumulated wear and tear?
#2 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 5:03pm
Eckhart,
Is the hull super fair over all ? If not, don't kill yourself ( literally and figuratively ) to get the surface mirror smooth, your just gonna redo it anyway ... I know, but you will .. LOL.
If its pretty close, good time now to get a even coat of something on it to hava look overall and just use it... All those little patches start to play tricks on you after a while.
Q: What is the cord width on that rudder ?
#4 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 5:51pm
Ecky, that is a very high aspect rudder or is it just that the stern is low and makes the rudder look tall and narrow?
#5 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 5:59pm
Who was the original builder of this canoe?
The rough finish gives it the war look, charge!
#6 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 6:23pm
Thanks ...
I can tell its smooth, by "patches" I meant breaks in the overal visual. Our eyes are amazingly accurate but that stuff makes it tougher.
Eckhart, IMHO you can cut at least 3" off that rudder and
lose nothing but drag. .250" width is cool.
Aloha,
pog
#8 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 6:50pm
Understood .. similar to the 'connected' feel you get with a super low volume kayak. Almost like you are semi - submersed.
#11 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 6:59pm
ASSuming the form is fair as you want to deal with for now, your 320-wetsanded-to-600 surface with all the different stuffs on it is not really gonna slow you down noticeably. If you like the deck well enough to think about molding it, spray it and buff it out. Leave the hull as is for now and scare people @ mark roundings. Don't hesitate to cut down that blade @ the root though.
#12 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 7:05pm
Sorry to toss you into more work ... if you had a mold of the blade this would be easy instead of going through tapering @ the tip again ... by all means just lop off @ the tip and re-foil.
Ultimate wetsanding / surface fairing block ... 6mm 5 pound foam about 6" x 4" ... triple stack if using 3lb foam.
#14 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 7:20pm
For fairing, i like a 2ft long semi-stiff board with very thin foam pad. Seems to ride the hull shape better and leaves no undulations.
Rambo
#15 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 7:48pm
Not something from the other thread right ?
Yep, biggest problem is holding the whole, foam-glassed-bondoed-don't-want-to-make-more-work thing down while you use two hands like you want with the board.
Still like 3-4" wide here.
#16 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 8:01pm
Yeah but you're a skilled tradesman, we're just Gumbies and can't shoot a straight line between us.... hahaa
It is nice to have one hand free to FEEL the hull as you work, rather than see.
Rambo
#17 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 8:09pm
Feeling is even better, especially when you are standing over the roughed out project with bad light feeling for port / starboard symmetry. Helps to have a solid backround to contrast too.
I call my boats "art over science"
The hulls are for science and are drawn / templated etc ...
I freehand the decks with minimal interference other than some 'hard points' need to hit for ergonomics. Double checking for symmetry comes afta'
#18 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 8:20pm
Pog , not sure that feeling (reaching) for a "port" is the right thing to be doing while fairing a hull, you might have too much and rub a hole in the hull.... hahaha.
I freeehand the decks too, then go pull out all the glass splinters from my hand and conclude i need to fair the hull some more. Takes a while for us OZZies to learn.
Cheers Rambo
#20 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 8:54pm
LOL .. I do my best work when on port : )
My brother ( wood artisan/antique reproducer/refinisher ) tells his customers with a straight face. "You know what I'm gonna do? I'm gonna strip your piece with alcohol."
#21 Thu, 01/01/2009 - 9:04pm

Oahu Impression:
Submitted by eckhart diestel on