Seat/velcro adhesive

Does anyone recommend an adhesive that works best for attaching velcro to seat material (closed cell foam) and to the hull itself? Also, to adhere to pieces of closed cell foam together? I've had marginal results w/ the adhesives I've used in the past.

Submitted by drewp on Mon, 03/15/2010 - 9:18am



I've used Contact Cement with good success on my seat. That's what was recommended by a Kai Wa'a rep. Put some on both surfaces, wait a minute, stick together and hold.


#1 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 10:27am


I've used "contact cement" and it eventually failed. I've looked at closed cell foam distributors websites where some of them recommend 3M type Marine adhesives.


#2 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 10:31am


I just found an old thread on this....sorry for the repeat..


#3 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 10:35am


PVC Cement, available from Keyston Brothers, Or come by our shop Hawaiian Canoe Canvas and I will glue it up from you, as they only sell the stuff by the quart. Call 927-7989, we are located in Kailua


#4 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 12:12pm


Kiricovers,

Does the PVC cement work on mini-cell foam ??? How does it hold up over time ... No peeling up ?

"On mini-cell foam = Bonding mini cell to smooth surfaces.

Thanks.
aloha,
pog


#5 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 2:48pm


Yea, and do you mean the regular PVC cement you use to cement PVC pipe together? that can be bought at any Home Depot, etc.?


#6 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 3:35pm


velcro to the canoe: scuff the area with 120 or 80 sandpaper and 5 minute epoxy the velcro to the boat.

velcro to the seat: grind the area of the seat with the same sandpaper and spray clearco 444 to both the seat area and the velcro. wait a few minutes spray another layer on each and stick it together.


#7 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 7:36pm


Id go with Julz he has to do it all the time.


#8 Mon, 03/15/2010 - 11:15pm


Gorilla Glue. Works great. No prep needed.


#9 Tue, 03/16/2010 - 5:56am


julz just cuts the velcro for me


#10 Tue, 03/16/2010 - 7:01am


3M Polyurethane glue. Although Gorilla is also a polyurthane glue, I don't know whether it comes off the surface (removable) or doesn't damage the surface like the 3M product? I will experiment sometime? Also expoxy is hard to remove, so I would apply it over a waxed surface or a thin film of something where I can just lift it off when time comes to change the foam seat. I had a hard time removing the epoxy from the cockpit of a surfski, where the the old foam seat was glued down with it. Ended up wet sanding it off and spoiling the appearance of the finish. No matter what, contact cement will do the job temporarily, but it comes off easily after leaving a saturated rag of solvent on it overnight. Always experiment first when using something unfamiliar for the first time, and keep in mind the thought of how can it be removed or whether it will damage the finished surface of the canoe.


#11 Tue, 03/16/2010 - 9:37am


Actually been meaning to ask a similar question.

I want to shorten my cockpit length by gluing some foam (some old flip flops, thongs) to the pedals and heel rest, how would I best go about this? The pedals are a plastiky material, and the heel rest is just same as the rest of the boat (glass).

Additionally, I was hoping to make the seat more of a cosy fit by installing those Epic Hip Pads.... I assume they come with their own adhesive? Like a surfboard deck grip?


#12 Tue, 03/16/2010 - 11:09am


Barge Cement.

Been using on boats for years with no failures. Great stuff.


#13 Tue, 03/16/2010 - 2:45pm


2nd the Barge ... Probably mentioned it on the other thread Drewp found ...

The best by far ... Night and day better than typical contact cements ... This stuff is what shoe repair guys use.

Really ... amazing stuff.

Gone Paddlin .... Where did you find it ???

Thanks.
aloha,
pog


#14 Tue, 03/16/2010 - 5:38pm


I use an industrial cement, we own a canvas shop that specializes in Outrigger Canoe Canvas. The cement, or as we call it, chemical weld, adheres to foam and fiberglass or carbon fiber. Call for more details: 927-7989, we are located in Kailua.


#15 Wed, 03/17/2010 - 12:38pm


Kiricovers,

While its fresh in your mind ... Is that stuff PVC cement ??? Just wondering as many are here ' cause I don't think any of us thought to try PVC cement. Thanks.

aloha,
pog


#16 Wed, 03/17/2010 - 12:47pm


Pog,

Current tube I've got I bought at a kayak store in San Diego. If you google barge cement you'll find plenty of online hits. Yeah the stuff really is good. I got turned onto it years back when I did some WW canoeing and was gluing up pads/straps in a boat. The local shop used it for all their stuff and swore by it. I tried it and never looked back.


#17 Wed, 03/17/2010 - 1:07pm


My local Ace Hardware store is getting me the Barge. Should I just follow label directions? and/or do the scuffing up of the hull and foam, apply to both parts, press together and hold... like others mentioned in this thread? In other words, are there any tricks to making it hold better?


#18 Wed, 03/17/2010 - 2:56pm


It's always good to scufff up the area that the glue/adhesive is going on (foam and hull) as it gives it some pores to get into for a good bonding. Especially the gelcoat since most have been waxed or buffed leaving some residue that may not allow proper bonding.

As for the foam, it should be dry as the water might stop the glue from being able to seep into the pores for a good bond.


#19 Wed, 03/17/2010 - 4:43pm


If you want a permanent job, then you can't beat Elmer's Marine Resorcinol Glue.


#20 Wed, 03/17/2010 - 11:44pm


Most important is for both surfaces to be clean & dry, especially from salt. For salt water boats, I'll wash thoroughly with soap & water, let dry (foam will take about 24 hrs to dry well) and then clean with MEK or Acetone. Scuffing up the surface lightly may help a bit too. Otherwise, apply as directed on package.

So many glues out there, many likely just as good (perhaps better) than Barge, but it's served me well enough without going insane trying all the many different other brands out there.


#21 Thu, 03/18/2010 - 9:04am


Found it! I knew I had some around, and the adhesive I use where I don't ruin the gelcoat finish is 3M Scotch- Weld 3532 B/A Urethane Adhesive Tube Kit. Yes, it is a messy two component system.


#22 Sat, 03/20/2010 - 12:58pm


I found and used the Barge for velcro to hull and velcro to foam. It seems to be holding well...we'll see once I get it wet a few times. Now I want to mold a custom seat using layers of closed cell foam. What would be a good "permanent" adhesive for this. I won't ever want these layers to come apart (this is similar to the seat that Rambo molded to his Okole several years back on his Hurricane).


#23 Sat, 03/27/2010 - 5:38am


Check out this site. They make a seat that looks like it would work on OC1
http://www.pxtkayaks.com/accessories/Seats.html


#24 Sat, 03/27/2010 - 5:48am


Kaimuki Ace Hardware got the Barge All Purpose Cement in stock for $5.99. Two left on the hook after I bought one to try out.


#25 Sat, 03/27/2010 - 2:23pm


That seat drew was made of blue foam glued together in layers with plain old Bear Brand yellow contact adhesive, and it is still in perfect condition today. No delam's and never kept in a cover, Hurricane with seat attached is still hanging outside under the eaves. Once the solvents evaporate out of the contact adhesive, the stuff sticks like shit to a blanket.

Here's how the seat was made.
http://rambos-locker.blogspot.com/2007/03/about-my-single-outrigger-cano...

R


#26 Sat, 03/27/2010 - 5:15pm


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