"...JP decided to go with stainless cables instead of the spectra line (im sure everyone is happy to hear that)"
The above was posted on the Ehukia thread. What's the story on Spectra line? I'm pretty sure my two year old Scorpius XM uses it. How often does it need to be changed out? How can you tell when it is getting ready to give out. With stainless cable you could see the individual threads in the cable were starting to break.
Submitted by YankeeHookele on Sun, 07/07/2013 - 10:20am
the spectra has inner strands and an outer layer. When it is fraying you can see the outer layer break first. The problem I encountered was the tiller on my China XM has a hidden tiller, so i couldn't see the spectra fraying at the tiller. I did think i felt something weird prior to it's breaking. Like i wasn't sure, but felt like the canoe wasn't tracking straight the day before it broke. Don't know if the spectra stretched, or I imagined it. Mine broke in 6 months, but i had an issue with it rubbing at the tiller. I have cable to replace it, but i am still using spectra.
#1 Sun, 07/07/2013 - 1:26pm
I find the easiest way to check is to put spray cans or something similar in front of the foot pedals to ease the tension of the bungee. Un do the screw to drop the rudder and pull the steering "T" out of the larger center hole in the back to check for fraying. Easy and takes only a few minutes. I have also replaced Spectra with Stainless and there is an easy process I learned so you don't have to cut open the area where the steering T is. If you want to know how I do it, I'll b happy to send instructions. With stainless, you need to check for wire fatigue which usually occurs in front at the foot pedal just behind the crimps- I just recrimp new stops after cutting off the old stops at the break. Second time , replace the entire wire. I have seen Spectra last a long time and the nice thing about it is that you don't need fancy tools to attach it, just patience to thread it thru the cable guide. In either case, with Spectra or Stainless, check often to make sure their isn't chafing or a broken strand- nothing is more of a drag on a fun day of paddling than having your steering go out. Ozone is solving the chafing problem fairly well by tying a knot at the outer end of the steering T on each side so there is very little movement of the line , therefore less chafing.
#2 Sun, 07/07/2013 - 8:47pm
I've never done this, but i would think putting stainless would be the same as changing spectra, feed it through from the pedal side, leaving the pieces long enough to attach it to the tiller outside the canoe, then feed the tiller back into the hull. I did look at an older Ozone XM and the spectra was tightly tied to the tiller. On mine, the spectra was fed through the outer hole, in the tiller, and tied to an inner hole near the rudder screw. It was protected with what looked like heat shrink. This caused a rubbing point that cut through the heat shrink and cut the spectra. Looking at the XM's that recently came in, they are connected similar to how mine was.
As far as spectra. I've talked to people that have had it on their canoes for over 2 years with no issues. My plan was to just change it out annually. it's not expensive, it's not hard, and I'm a guy, gives me a chance to tinker.
#3 Sun, 07/07/2013 - 10:27pm
k3- that's correct - feed from the pedal side. If the Spectra is tied at the outer ends of the steering T, less a chance of chafing.
#4 Mon, 07/08/2013 - 8:03am