2007 Hurricane OC-1 Questions

Is the 2007 Hurricane an improvement over the previous model? I know that the previous Cane's were a big fragile. What is this 'twist lock' iako?

Since winter is almost over in the North East I'm looking to get a new kanu. I sold my Stingray last season so I'm looking at either the Huki V1-X (Carbon/FG layup) or the '07 Hurricane (Hawaiian East getting shipment in May). Price is almost the same cept I can pickup the Cane and not pay shipping where the Huki will cost $500 to ship to the east coast.

Conditions here are mostly flat unless I go out when there is 20-30mph gust, then I'll see some 2-4 foot chops and crazy crosswinds. Times when the big boats go by then I get their wakes.

Submitted by hybridpaddle on Tue, 03/13/2007 - 4:49am

The 07 hurricane appears to be similar to last yrs model but apparantly the seam issue has been apparantly dealt with ...time will tell .The hurricane looks great ,nice finish and the "twist lock " has been around for awhile .You just insert it into the hull and twist the sleeve to lock it in place and its nice and tight ..great design

Hurricane did release some fibreglass versions here in the PNW and you can't tell the difference between the carbon and fibreglass and they almost weight the same within a couple of lbs which is amazing ......makes me wonder how they will hold up ...again time will tell .The fibreglass version is cheaper and the benefit is its cheaper to repair and can even be done by most autobody shops as its sprayed in automotive type paint which means lots of cool special effect colours aval if you want to do some crazy paint

I have paddled the X and its nice but the rigging isn't as tight and it doesn't come fully loaded like the hurricane is and the hurricane comes w/ covers too . In flat water the hurricane will bury the Huki w/ the same paddler on both .The hurricane is a fast oc1 and is the choice for most flat water paddlers and its also great in chop .

Hmmm...you would think I should become a hurricane salesman based on how much I promote this oc1 ,lol and I don't even own one anymore ............damn ...should have kept it as well

#1 Tue, 03/13/2007 - 6:24am

Thanks, I'm glad someone has seen the '07 Canes because this is the only info I got from the shop's e-mail.

"State of the Art Construction with double pre-preg carbon, a close cell
foam sandwich and another double layer of pre-preg carbon.

*Vacuum bagged then baked and pressurized in an autoclave. Pre-preg is
pre-impregnated carbon fiber. Since it is dry, It allows the construction
process to have 0 margin of error in lay-up regarding waste of material and
over use of material and epoxy. Hence, consistency in weight, durability
and strength. The autoclave pressurizes the carbon to fill in all spaces of
the mold, with the oven baking the carbon still and strong.

*New drain plug system is more functional. Also, new seat is softer and
more comfortable. "

The Stingray's Iako screw on system was very tight and I've tried a ball detent system like and it felt sloppy to me.

My big concern is durability, I had seam troubles with my Stingray after awhile from carrying it back and forth.

#2 Tue, 03/13/2007 - 7:30am


I just bought a Hurricane 2007 OC1, but honestly have no idea how to insert the rudder, what tools to use, and basically how to properly rig the boat. i have a basic idea in my mind, but i don't want to risk rigging it on my own.

hope you guys can help me.

thanks a lot!

#3 Mon, 05/25/2009 - 9:00pm


Get a rep to install the rudder, but it is simple. I just got a hurricane and I installed it on my own. Only two tools you need
a. Need screw drivers;
b. Allen keys ( sorry don't know the size no, just a get a few, mid- small ones)>

  1. unscrew the trapezium shape plastic thing at the back - (rudder housing). You will see quite quickly where things go and how to work it out.
  2. you will see a semi-cirular shaped hole which the Rudder shaft will go in from below the hull ( only one way of going in, so you won't get the direction wrong). Ths shaft cross-section at the end fits the hole one way only.
  3. Insert the shaft from bottom of hull right into the housing
  4. to Tighten the rudder shaft, there is an Allen screw lying in a groove of the housing mechanism- screw it home and it will lock the shaft into the rudder housing.
  5. close the trapzium shape plastic cover.


YOu can ask Rambo in case this is not clear. He knows a lot about hurricanes!!

#4 Mon, 05/25/2009 - 10:45pm

Pretty much covered the steps to put on the rudder above.

Just some extra advice to do as I helped change the spectra steering cable system on a friends Hurricane. Once in a while, unscrew the two screws for the plastic rudder cover completely and put them back.

This will prevent the screws from getting stuck or rusting in place. They should be stainless steel screws, but the ones on my friends Hurricane did rust and they wouldn't come out.

#5 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 1:04am

I've owned hurricanes and I own a Huki V1-A. I always felt a bit heavy on my hurricanes (particularly in fresh water). I run about 195 lbs. I like the boat except for the ill-padded seat. My huki has done me well in the flats yet MY boat is kind of fragile in the bumps/ocean conditions (I think this is improved on the newer models from Huki). I know Outriggers east also carries Kai's boats (pegasus, etc.). Just something else to think about

#6 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 1:35am

One thing to look out for , don't over tighten the alan head screw that secures the rubber to the shaft. Too tight and the plastic/nylon tiller bar cracks when you have a minor rudder hit.

Tighten it till it stops, then turn a little more till it's firm. The rudder won't fall out as the shaft has a notch in it.

Cheers rambo

#7 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 2:52am


What is the seam issue with the older Hurricanes?

I ask because a friend of mine has a Hurricane (he bought it used and we guess it’s about 5 years old) and the boat takes on a ton of water when if we are paddling in open ocean swell. Worst I’ve seen is over a gallon, maybe two.

The canoe seems pretty good in flatwater, so we were trying to figure out if it’s the unusual Hurricane vent over the rudder, or a seam leak. I’ve seen comments here about soaping up the boat and blowing air into the vent to look for bubbles on the hull, but we’ve been trying to figure out an easier way.

#8 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 7:35am

I just realized that this is picking up on a two year old thread. Probably should have got that from the whole “2007” thing in the subject line.

Not sure if OCsprinter is still out there. Would really appreciate hearing from anyone with experience dealing with seam/vent leaks on a Hurricane. Thanks.

#9 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 7:47am

zebignu, Not sure how much easier you need it to be than blowing some air into the vent and spraying the boat with soapy water. It is as simple as that, Don't overthink it, Don't worry about compressors or bike pumps. The pressure you make with your own breath is plenty, Sometimes it can be a bit harder with the Hurricane vent because it is a little harder to reach, I use the tube from my camel bak to put in the hole (when you take the ball valve out) Blow in the tube, you will know you have enough air in the boat when you stop blowing and the air rushes back out, Bend over the tube and clamp it with a clothes pin, Spray the boat.

Pay special attention to the seam area under the seat, This is where the problems were happening, also the Iako receivers,, foot pedal, drain in footwells and around the rudder housing,

One thing to keep in mind for all boats, If you have a small leak, and take a hot boat that has been sitting on the beach in the sun, Then take it in the water, the hot air inside is going to cool off and lose volume, (colder the water more the air shrinks) The boat will suck the water into the hull, making a small leak appear to be much bigger, Even a pinhole leak will suck in a lot of water.

If you do have a split seam (larger than 6 inches) the fix can be very easy, Mask off the seam, take popsicle sticks and open up the seam, don't be afraid to add some pressure and the seam may even open up more, allow this to happen to be sure you get all the weak spots, But don't force it. Clean out the inside of the seam with a dental tool and use some accetone to make sure the area is clean of dust and salt. Mix up some epoxy resign, I use the west systems, add the micro filler, This reduces wait as well as gives it some volume, You want it to be the consistency of slightly runny peanut butter, There is a bout a 1 inch overlap on the seam (think shoe box) spread the epoxy on both sides of the seam, remove sticks and let sit, You should have good contact when the seam closes on it's own pressure, some tape across the seam helps keep it closed, on a few cases i needed to add weights, or force it closed.

I have done about 10-15 seams repairs with this method (It is how I was told to do it from Hurricane) As far as I know none have ever had further problems,
If the split is 6 inches or less you can probably just force in some epoxy and leave it, without opening with the sticks,

#10 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 9:17am

watch out for the peddles as well. They made peddles out of plactic and it tends to bind. You will not be able to push the peddles down to steer. Horrible. Watch out for the peddles...

Seat sucks...seat is a piece of sh$t.

New Hurricane is suppose to be coming out soon. Apparently seat issue and ama issue's are suppose to be cleaned up. Hurricane is a great boat, great HULL design. You might want to wait a bit for the new model. don't know when that will happen though.


#11 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 9:02am

The Hurricane is fast, but to say that it's faster than the 09 V1-X will need to be determined--I doubt it. With less rocker, lower seat, and ama in four inches over previous models, I would say that the new Huki will hold its own. I've tested on flat and rough conditions, and it's one to look at. Choices come to mind when looking at a Huki--colors, seat--sliding or velvro, lock hole, weed guard,and weedless rudders all make the Huki a wise choice. If you're a person of size, one more reason for a Huki. It's great to have choices.

#12 Tue, 05/26/2009 - 1:31pm


Thanks for the detailed directions. Really appreciate the guidance! I’ll give what you said a try and see what happens.

#13 Wed, 05/27/2009 - 4:21am


There is a drain hole /vent in the front middle screw holding the rubber cords tying the paddle. I bet that takes in water in rough water

There is also a vent hole in ama, near front iako sleeve. That too is a leak

BUT Rep from outrigger zones say those vents should not take in water unless they are submerged for a while in water......

In rough water, my ama once took in 1 litre,,,, and the main hull about 1/2 a litre. (2.5 hours paddle 4 m swell). Nothing usually or just a little in flat or small swells.....

Does anyone think this is normal? I have used a friend's hurricane which stayed bone dry inthe hulls after similar conditions! And I just got mine end of April.... ( less than 1 month)

I am not very happy with it esp if i am going to do long races in open ocean. I have yet to do the soap thing.....but could not see/hear any other leak apart from those vents after blowing into the drainwell ..

#14 Fri, 05/29/2009 - 6:17am

If the vent/drain knobs is turned in the closed position when you are paddling it, there shouldn't be any (if at all) water coming into the hull/ama through those so called vent holes you are mentioning. Didn't know they have extra holes other than the vent/drain knob.

Ask your friend if he has the knobs open or if he closes them after the canoe is put on the water.

#15 Sat, 05/30/2009 - 12:35am

Hurricane > HUKI (any model).

#16 Sat, 05/30/2009 - 12:01pm


Hi E7M,
It is my canoe that is causing problems..
all the drain wells were closed. there must be a leak.......
it is a new canoe, < 1 month old.

#17 Sat, 05/30/2009 - 4:27pm

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