OC1 cleaning and polishing materials?

I own a 3 yr old Chinese made Pegasus that I want to keep as fresh looking as possible. While at present I clean my boat with a mild dishwashing detergent, I find it doesnt work well on the frequent oil stains from the gross waters out here. Also, there appears to be a bit of yellowy deposits forming on the body that don't seem to come off. Is there anything stronger I should use and is there a good after-cleaning polish/protectant I should wipe on the surface to help prevent future "mold" growth?


Submitted by davidblunt on Thu, 04/03/2008 - 7:48pm


works 4 me

#1 Thu, 04/03/2008 - 8:16pm

on the six mans we use FSR (fiberglass stain remover) followed by some sort of teflon wax/polishing compound to seal the pores again. it takes the yellow fades and stains right out and then the wax keeps them from coming back.

#2 Thu, 04/03/2008 - 8:29pm

cool fresh water from a hose followed by gentle air drying has done wonders for me

i have seen others use chamois or polish. hopefully snarfblat can speak up, he is a frequent polisher of the hull.

#3 Thu, 04/03/2008 - 8:40pm

600 sandpaper ...

#4 Tue, 04/08/2008 - 10:57pm

the chinese made pegasus is sprayed w/ automotive type paint so you can just use a fine automotive type cut polish on the finish or cleaner wax . Mine comes up awesome and it helps protect it as well .The hurricane is the same .....

#5 Wed, 04/09/2008 - 4:31am

DO NOT use 600. Hiro C, youre joking, right? As mentioned, the surface is not gelcoat, its Linear Polyurethane, and not a very high quality LP at that. Try the System One line. As nb1376 mentioned, the FSR will remove the yellowing.


#6 Wed, 04/09/2008 - 6:03am

so 600 sandpaper won't do... use 800 instead !

#7 Wed, 04/09/2008 - 5:28pm

NO, NO, & NO!!!! Sand paper is for sanding. It does not, in any way, polish or seal the surface. If there are light scratches, you wish to remove, begin with 1500, then 2000, and finally 2500. Then use the System One. Hiro C, you must surely be joking. Just remember, some will take you serious.

#8 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 7:07am

Reminds me of the time my wife cleaned the bugs and tar off the front bumper of the car with steel wool.

Any abrasive, including polishing compounds, take a certain amount of material off the surface. If you make a regular habit of polishing your boat, you will eventually wear through the paint or gel-coat.

Anyway, I think Hiro is being sarcastic.

#9 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 7:26am

I concur kdkoors.
For the record the LP that is used on the canoes is paper thin. The 800 or less will go right through the clear coat, into or through the color coat. The problem is if you are using water it will hide the burn through till you dry it. Even if you try to polish the color coat, it wont. Also, keep in mind, the gelcoat on an OC1 is also extremely thin to keep weight to a minimum so you gotta be light on the gelcoat boats as well.

#10 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 8:24am


Aurora VS 721 works for me to polish and seal the boat after cleaning. Aurora has a number of boat cleaners and deoxidizers safe for fiberglass/composite hulls as well

#11 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 11:42am

I use a "Meguiar's" Oxidation remover (Marine/RV) which is a gel coat cleaner. It works great, getting discolourations out as well as small scratches. Then if you really want to finish it off with a shine, West Marine has a Boat polish (PTEF) that is to be used on fibreglass. Both products easily found and around $10.

#12 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 12:29pm

Ok i think we need to clarify there are 2 different coatings here.
Some boats have gelcoat, some boats have automotive finishes. I think both require very different methods of cleaning.

I remember reading something about world cup sailors using super fine grit sandpaper to prepare their boats for races (gelcoat).


#13 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 1:48pm

There is a theory that a sanded surface creates less drag due to the way the molecules move across the surface. However at our low speeds it is thought to be moot. Also, gelcoat, by nature, is poreous. If you remove the sealent (wax/sealer) that closes those pores you create channels for water to wick into the laminate. Not good!!! Additionaly, a sanded surface collects dirt and grease and stains the gelcoat.

#14 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 2:03pm

so if the sanded theory only works above paddling speeds. isn't the same true for chines?

my new ambition is to have a mirror like shine on my boat. in fact, i think i'll get it bronzed or chromed so i can buff it to an amazing sheen. this newfound slickness will surely offset the possible problems resulting from weight gained by coating my boat in metal.

#15 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 2:09pm

as long as everyone is talking about surface tension and friction. look in the recent news.

and as a follow up

amazingly, this company is using WIND tunnels to test drag for WATER.

#16 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 7:26pm

Hey everyone,

On It Pro really will make you go faster.
It is a 2 part process that reduces friction between the water and the hull by up to 15%... It is great to use on your OC1, OC4, OC6, SurfSki, Surfboards, StandUp Board, Kite Board and just about everything.
They have been using a like product in the Professional Offshore Boat Racing for years.

We are now Distributing and Retailing the product & will have it up on my website very soon with all the information.
We will be offering an introductory sale price to help get the word out on this product.
Please email me at sales@paddleme.com for more information or to place an order.

#17 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 7:36pm

How about some Kamanu canoes???

#18 Thu, 04/10/2008 - 9:57pm

The funny thing about these polishes and coatings is that they all claim reduction in friction between the water and the hull,but somehow fail to mention that hull is not realy moving much against the water as there is always a boundary layer of water which hugs the hull and moves with it, so the friction is between water and water and not between hull and water so what is 15% of 0 ,the sanding(1200grit) actualy produces some micro turbulence which causes the flow in boundary layer and makes it thiner and the place where any effect could be made is in the last 1/3rd of the canoe where the boundary layer gets thicker.
In americs cup yachts where the top teams actualy spend 200mio $ so spare no expense to gain an advantage they only sand 1200 grit and clean all the time and they actualy measured these things in tow tanks.

So for now polish ,wax ,buff your canoes ,keep them maintained but dont expect to gain any speed

#19 Fri, 04/11/2008 - 9:20pm

great post

#20 Fri, 04/11/2008 - 11:06pm

so wait who are we to believe here. the offshore racers, or america's cap yachtsmen?

since a sheet of 1200 grit is cheaper than the 2 part polish...i know who i'm going to believe.

#21 Fri, 04/11/2008 - 11:12pm

Canoemaker, sensible post; however I thought it was first 1/3 of boat that structuring makes the most [relative] difference?

Paddleme, how did the manufacturer measure 15%? Not bustin' on ya, just interested.

#22 Sat, 04/12/2008 - 3:19pm

Nope 1/3rd of the boat has a very thin boundary layer which gets thicker all the time until the end.

Haven't found a better pictural presentation ,but think that is good enough

#23 Sun, 04/13/2008 - 7:49am

Something always to think about when talking drag on hulls etc , in any direction ........ WATER LOVES CURVES and HATES STRAIGHT LINES

Cheers Rambo

#24 Sun, 04/13/2008 - 6:53pm

I would like to know if using polish and/or wax can later cause problems if I need to do repairs. Will the resin adhere well ?
BTW aquafiend65, I know what sandpaper is made for... But are you sure 2500 won't do ?
If you really want to keep your hull shinny and new-looking, best thing to do is to clean it with fresh water after each use and to store it away from sunlight.

#25 Sun, 04/13/2008 - 6:00pm

Except when it comes to the trailing edge ...


#26 Sun, 04/13/2008 - 8:26pm

Thanks for the clarity, CM. Good diagram.

Of course, not wanting to give up just yet and for sake of argument (plus I can never stop talking about watercraft anyway)... Taking that diagram and how it shows a linear path of increasing turbulence from bow to stern. Rather than try and "fix" the rear portion with structure since hydrodamically that turbulence cannot be prevented because your splitting the water with a long, thin object. How about focusing on the beginning third, reducing the turbulence in front thus reducing the magnitude of turbulence in the rear (assuming a constant linear amplification from bow->stern)? If you start at bow with turbulence of magnitude 5 and end at stern with magnitude 10. How about trying to start at 3 hoping to finish at 8? Would this be another way to approach? As you stated, structuring the rear reduces turbulence where it is greatest. This would in effect reduce the slope of the curve.

Only reason I'm brining this up [again] is a few years back when I did some research (just passively reading, no active testing) I remember reading a recommendation of concentrating on first 1/3. 'Course, what I read could've been telling me the rear 1/3 and I'm just getting it mixed up.

Again, just talkin' boats for sake of talkin' boats...good fun.

#27 Mon, 04/14/2008 - 7:48am

Chine, Agreed, and never heard different from any respected source 'till .... 1st third IS most important..... after that keeping things 'attatched' is just hopefull thinking ..... reason enough for trying but 'front' is what counts IMH-and-thats-a-scientific-fact-O.

Not that anyone wetsanding a hull would stop @ 1st ( or starrt @ last) third and say "O.K. i'm done." anyway.

Edit, O.K.>, reread and understood Canoemakers post from a different perspective..... so YES last third would make the most difference if you could keep things attached back there .. agreed again .... dang, apologies for coporate-esk opinion.

#28 Tue, 04/15/2008 - 12:31am


I heard a rumor this past weekend that both Karel and Danny used this stuff on their boats during the Molokai. This same person said their club used it on their 6-man's and every crew's time improved by 10 seconds or more in the last regatta. Anyone heard about this product or tested it. I am skeptical, but willing to try anything to get faster without having to actually get off the couch and turn off the tv.

Note: this product was mentioned earlier in this thread by a local dealer.

#29 Mon, 07/14/2008 - 5:26pm

Many of the other cleaning and polishing products are similar expense. I think canoemakers points puts a fork in any reasonable expectation that it will actually work but if you paddle in water like I do you need the products anyway and they keep junk from sticking to your boat and knowing how superstitious athletes can be a little placebo effect never hurt.

#30 Mon, 07/14/2008 - 9:53pm

Shawn Michael

#31 Mon, 07/14/2008 - 9:53pm

I'm a big shiny car, shiny boat kinda guy, believing ( rightly or wrongly) that if you take good care of your toy$, they take care of you...most of the time...

while Open Ocean is retailling the On-It Pro product ( Blue goo and Extreme Cream) we prefer to test before flogging and I took a few bottles and tried it out on some things.. you can read my observations (they are non scientific) on the first component of this product ( Blue Goo) at the blog link below.

i'm aware there are more and more paddlers ( particularly in CA) trying this product.. chime in if you have some perspectives? ( or tell me about your shiny canoe - I need some excitement!)

#32 Wed, 07/23/2008 - 4:29pm

If you can disregard all the hype about products that will make your canoe faster than a speeding bullet, you should focus on products that will preserve and protect the finish. The exterior coating of a canoe is no different than the coating on a car. When both of them are new, straight from the factory, they should be coated with a good quality paste wax. They should be washed regularly and recoated with wax at least every two months. This will prevent dirt and other types of grime from sticking in the pores of an unprotected finish. If you purchase a used canoe that has a faded or discolored finish, you can restore the original luster with a quality buffing compound such as Meguiar's #3 and a buffing machine. Then proceed to wax as described before. Sanding with fine grit paper will remove a portion of the surface and improve the appearance but if you do not follow with a buffing and waxing the sanded surface will be a magnet for every type of airborne and waterborne contaminant.

#33 Wed, 07/23/2008 - 10:06pm


check this stuff out. He will send a free sample. The stuff is neat. When the board is dry you don't feel it but once wet it feels like the skin of a fish. Slimy and slippery.

#34 Mon, 08/04/2008 - 3:29pm

Hmm, so now we can argue hydrophobic (boat wax, OnIt) vs. hydrophyllic (accleratedsurfing).

Which has more friction?

  1. structured surface
  2. smooth surface tx'd with hydrophobic agent
  3. smooth surface tx'd with hydrophyllic agent

I'll also argue that the least amount of hull surface in the water (in appropriate length/width proportion) is likely most important, so dropping a few pounds while increasing strength is IMO the best, most proven way to get faster.

#35 Mon, 08/04/2008 - 3:53pm

Good question.

Hydrophilic agents are used on catheterization tools in heart surgery. Basically designed to reduce friction while tunneling through blood vessels. The premise being the a phobic agent repels water creating a dry surface creating more friction.

Hydrophilic agents bond a water molecule to the agent creating a wet on wet contact reducing the amount of friction. Sounds cool. These products are used in commercial boating and have real world results. Reducing the amount of fuel boats consume.

#36 Mon, 08/04/2008 - 4:17pm

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