New project: Build V6

Had I known it was that easy! Goosebumps.

Submitted by haggan on Thu, 10/23/2008 - 2:29pm



Bill just a question to pick your brain, how do you combat or eliminate cloudy or discolored epoxy with stripper hulls that forms on the inside. Some say it's water ingress after the construction and others say it's the moisture content in the timber initially too high. What's your experience with this?

Cheers Rambo


#71 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 4:39pm


Rambo
You and anyone else is always welcome to take her out with your respective crew for a spin whenever you're here.
Sorry, just realized I am teasing again. But for real.......just let me know when you're coming.
I made the offer prior to Liliu'okalani but, no one took me up on it.


#72 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 4:42pm


Re moisture, I've seen it happen under the glass where you have air bubbles between the wood and glass. Don't know if it's from moisture after construction or if from the moisture content in the wood. Could be both. My wood here is down to less than 10% moisture. I seal the inside bottom of the hull with a coat of epoxy before laying the glass.


#73 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 4:53pm


Yes Rambo, that's what I was referring to regarding the jig saw cut....aligning the hull. Right in the middle of the vid, the cut is shown again with 'replaced' strips every 2 to 3 strips apart. This is to help 'hold' the new alignment in place.


#74 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 4:59pm


They could have also put the Jap saw thru all the glue joins in the low spot too and expanded it that way. It's cool that they share their tips

A trip to the Big Island is in my diary Bill, thank you. Maybe we can do a Bill Rosehill Canoe Video. (wink)

I have also heard some epoxy brands go cloudy and others don't, even with uv protection coating.

Cheers Rambo


#75 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 5:13pm


The cut was right on top of the station. That station could have been misaligned, not true, with the rest of the stations at set-up hence, the hull in that spot was either too high or too low and the station had to be readjusted to permit correction. We assume the measurement we see with the string line was related to the jig saw cut but, perhaps it had nothing to do with the jigsaw cut. Clearly, the video camera was not running continuously thruout the entire 2 weeks. The mystery continues...........


#76 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 5:29pm


Bill,
what do tou use to glass your hulls ? And why glassing only the inside ?
I know that kayak builders glass inside AND outside of the hull. Thickness of wood can be as low as 3/16 with 4oz glass on both sides.
I've seen that Mata'irea Hoe canoe needs to be varnished after each time they use it. They use Carbon blade paddles and those are very agresive to the striped hull. To me, glassing the outside would make sense.


#77 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 6:29pm


Hiro, Bill will definitely glass the outside, what he was referring to was that he pre-seals the timber inside before applying the glass and subsequent hot coats. Most builders do this so the porous timber does not suck out all the resin from the glass and cause dry weave (goes white not clear). Usually this precoat is left to gel off only and then the glass layer started a short lime later, other wise have to sand or wash off he wax forming on the surface of cured epoxy.

He would do the same on the outside.

I know of one builder who doesn't glue the strip edges together just nails them in place and then glasses over hoping the excess resin will penetrate and fill up the gaps, he calls it a dry stripping method. Saves heaps of time but at a great risk believing the the strips are only a core and that the sandwich will provide most of the strength. Not worth the risk i don't recon.

Rambo


#78 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 6:51pm


Thanks Rambo, I know what a seal-coat is...
I've seen many stripped canoes here that are glassed only on the inside. Bill said he seals the inside of the hull before glassing, and made no such reference about the outside. I assumed he was glassing only the outside, hence my question.
In the vid, it seems that AhTak is also glassing the outside when glueing the deck and hull. ou can see somme sort of cloth hanging down.


#79 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 7:13pm


Sorry Hiro, i didn't mean to preach, but anyone else following the thread may like a few more details besides, i'm off work today and feel like typing hahaha... My assumption was based on Bill building lightweight canoes as he stated earlier 1/4 and 1/2 strips of which I would be very surprised if they were not glassed in and out, with the inside heavier to bring up to weight as what is usually done.

Ah Tak filled the inside cracks with thickened epoxy which is norm after removing the glue dags but then the video goes fast forward to another day and you see the deck go on and the outside glassing appears to also bond the molded deck to the hull (what you saw draping).

Bill must have gone to bed it's late in Hawai'i isn't it.

Cheers Rambo


#80 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 7:43pm


definitely glass both sides. wood is like a sponge and will change shape but the glass would not and I'm sure it shrinks to when it cures. I was glassing today,by the way

Photobucket

sorry to interrupt but I'm stoked from canoe making.


#81 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 7:47pm


Not sniffing the fumes i hope Mulus ...hahaha

I'm off for a paddle
Rambo


#82 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 8:03pm


it’s late in Hawai’i isn’t it.

as late as it is in Tahiti. (same time zone).
I suppose he is not as much computer addicted as we are ;-)


#83 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 8:05pm


Very nice job mulus, wish I had the time and ROOM for such a project.


#84 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 8:24pm


I'm not off to bed yet.....but soon, as the wine is catching up to me. It's my birthday tonite and I took a break to BBQ my steak dinner with my daughter and my girlfriend. Sorry to leave you guys hanging.
I only glass the inside. I seal the outside with epoxy, sand, and then shoot it with 3 to 4 coats of Awl Grip Clear Coat. It's what is used on the hulls of the Charter Fishing Boats here in Kona. It's hard and has UV protection. It's expensive but it lasts a few years if you don't allow use of carbon paddles in your canoe. I only allow wooden paddles in my wooden canoes for that reason. (Of course, when you guys come here and you only have your carbon paddles, it'll be OK.)
I only glass inside b/c I'd rather have the weight in the thickness of the hull (wood) rather than in fiberglass. The fiberglass inside is to help hold the canoe together in the event one stands or walks in my canoe. By Hawaiian tradition/culture, it is disrespectful to step in to, stand in, walk in, or jump over a canoe. But you see it every day. The glass on the inside bottom of the hull adds strength and reinforcement to the hull. Especially so with thin hulls.
Ok, altho' it's only 8:30, I may sign off 'til tomorrow unless someone responds soon.


#85 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 8:27pm


Happy Birthday Bill! Thank you for your generosity.


#86 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 8:36pm


Great job mulus. Keep us updated with more pictures of your work. I know it will give others more inspiration to try their hand at it.

The same goes out to Bill and others that have shown their work and give whatever knowledge they have about building.


#87 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 8:40pm


Thanks guy's

its 11:45 in Vancouver I'm off to bed


#88 Sun, 10/26/2008 - 8:43pm


Happy birthday Bill, go give that wine another tasting.
Nite Mulus, Hiro, haggan. and all you other outrigger addicts. We all learned something tonite and i'm happy 'cos i whipped everyone at training tonite as well.

Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
HAPPY BIRTHDAY BILL - from OcPaddler locals

Cheers Rambo


#89 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 12:44am


Happy birthday Bill.


#90 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 12:20am


Bill
Happy Birthday a day late.
Racing here in So Cal, I was taught the "rules" you spoke about regarding respect of the canoe. Especially, step over the canoe and expect to get a whack upside your head. On road trips this past summer to different areas, I found that in many places that doesn't seem to be taught anymore. It is strange (and sad in a way) to see paddlers with no respect for the canoes that carry and protect them.


#91 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 3:25am


Quote Kevlon :
"The man is a true craftsman, I bet someone out there has images/ footage of the all Aluminium va’a he built , it is still on Raietea somewhere.
Can you help Hiro?"

Aluminium ??
Pictures some one please ?


#92 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 5:35am


I appreciate the well wishes guys, thanks.

Great practice Rambo, right on!

To add to the 'no glass on the outside'....repairs, if any, to the wood is easy w/o glass, and the finish touches up easy too.

I work and store my canoes at sea level. No risk of moisture in the air getting in to my wood as I build. Mulus, don't you have a lot of rain, hence moisture in the air that your wood would accumulate making it necessary for you to glass both inside and out?

You're right, Jibofo, a whack upside one's head. Once you leave the shore, your canoe is your life line for a safe return. As such, the canoe is treated with utmost respect. It is not treated like an object, ie., a soccer ball that you'd kick from one end of the field to the other. The front and back tips of the manus on my Hawaiian OC-6's carry the shape of the Cross, to protect you as you go forward on your journey, and to protect you from the rear as well, to insure your safety. This is a trait of the Hawaiian canoe that most in our sport are unaware of and is not being furthered. If you go back to the pictures of my 'O'o at Liliu'okalani, you'll see what I'm referring to.


#93 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 6:49am


Bill,

I got a scenario that you may be able to give me advice on or just tell me to scrap it. So I and 2 other instructors started a "tape and seam" project with HS youth. I am not a boat builder and neither is my friend...hence the 3rd instructor (who has tape and seam kayak building experience). The experience that me and my friend have is knowledge of "traditional" shaped "chinook style canoes"). So we gave our plans to the 3rd instructor to work on the project with the youth while we worked with them on Paddle making and canoe model carving. Unfortunately...the boat instructor fiber glassed the entire outside of the canoe (while we were on a field trip). This, however, is not exactly what we wanted....as we need to steam (technically using hot water in towels) out the stern and mid sections. As it is now fiber glassed what are the ramifications of steaming out already glassed marine grade plywood? I've suggested sanding out the fiberglass in the areas we need steam out then patch and glass them back when we get the shape that we want. My co-hort says maybe we just try to steam it out with the glass already on and hope/pray that it doesn't separate. FYI: the inside is not glassed.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Been really enjoying this forum and your comments as it has been enlightening.


#94 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 8:12am


ninfeet, kevin,
wish I knew where this canoe is...


#95 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 2:47pm


Bill-

Quick question: How light could you build an OC1 or V1 with the wood strip technique? Not looking for anything race-able, but something that would be fun to take out and still be reasonable to handle from the car to the water. Aloha!


#96 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 3:25pm


Sloughcanoe,
You don't mention how long an area you need to steam out. And I should mention that I don't use that method. Here's how I would do it....
Using a skill saw (thin blade), I'd make horizontal cuts all the way thru the hull, say 2" apart, along the area you want to move outward. You may need only 2 cuts depending how much area you need to move. Or, you may need 3 or more cuts. Once done with that, wedge sticks against the opposite wall to 'push' out the area you've cut. When the alignment is to your satisfaction, squeegie epoxy in your cut lines to hold them in place. When the epoxy dries, knock out your wedges,......done.
You will have horizontal glue lines that won't be too noticable. But you eliminate all the grinding of the glass and reglassing after steaming.
Does this make any sense or have I totally misunderstood your needs?

FF Kino
The OC-1 I previously mentioned is 1/4" thick and weighs 70 lbs. A bit too heavy for 1 person to struggle with from the car to the water, I think. I'd try the next one with much thinner strips and glass it (the outside!!!) while it sits on the strong-back. Otherwise, I doubt I'd be able to take something that thin, off of the strong-back w/o it falling apart. Don't know how heavy or lite it would be, as I haven't tried one like that yet.

Please, any others who may have other options for these two friends to follow, jump in. I'm not the 'authority' by any means.
I'm merely interested in helping whereever I can.


#97 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 7:08pm


FF Kino, for what it's worth, i did some sample stripper hull panels for my OC2 project.

Here's the details and photos

I've made some test panel layups of sections of the hull (400mm x 500mm curved section) and now have had them weighed. Here are the results.

My strongest and best test panel weighs .423lb/ft2 or 2.07 kgs/m2. The finished panel is 3/16 or 5mm thick including 4 oz glass both sides but only the outer with a filler epoxy coat and sanded smooth and fair. The inner is just the wet out coat on the fiberglass fabric. (All that is required for full strength) As the accepted average weight of a kayak stripper is .717 lb per sqft, I have come in way under weight and the panel is as stiff as hell. I can stand on it. (See photo)

Based on this, that puts the OC1 outrigger (4.5) m2 at 20.5 lbs or 9.3 kgs and the OC2 outrigger (6.5m2) at 29.65lb or 13.45kgs. With only a foam seat, drop through the deck foot wells (which will be carbon fiber moulded and weigh no more than the timber removed to drop them in thu the deck) rudder, rudder cables and iako mounts that's it.

Definitely worth the time I put in to fit the strips with no gaps to absorb resin and carefully removing excess resin in the wet out. I vacuum bagged the inside and outside lay-ups and the peel ply silky fabric I used over the top of the wet lay-up flattened the fabric and resin to produce an almost smooth finish on the outside of the hull, which required only a one light filler coat to fully bury the fabric.

Raw strips joined no glass
Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
Glassed with 2 filler coats
Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
Strong as
Image Hosted by ImageShack.us

Realistically, allow for a finished Hurricane size stripper with careful weight choices including low resin content and lightweight accessories 12 - 14kg (26 - 30LB) and for the scaled up OC2 16 - 20kg (35 - 44LB)

Don't for get the OC2 is designed for 2 - 70kg paddlers so the volume is smaller than regular OC2's.

These strips were not bead and cove, each strip was beveled to fit it's adjacent strip so no gaps = little glue = low weight.

Bill has me thinking now about not glassing the outside, but could be that the 3 to 4 coats of Awl Grip Clear Coat may weigh the same as glass.

Hope this has helped you.

Cheers Rambo


#98 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 8:37pm


Hang five Rambo. look like your doping in.

I think it would be great to see a Rambo strip Va'a or OC1. real tight lines.

and we do have a bit of moisture in Van , even a bit moor in North Van


#99 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 8:31pm


Wow,thank you guys for the responses, truly awesome. Rambo, I feel almost guilty accepting your info for how much legwork you already did. But thank agains, I fell headed in the right direction for what i'm looking in to.


#100 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 10:33pm


Kino,

Looky Here

i think this was posted before. a buddy of mine made one and fully rigged it could be carried with two people. his may have been lighter then the plans said. guess it is cartopable depending on your car.

this is another option if you want to get it done fast. not quite a design for gnarly open ocean runs, but it's pretty fast in leeward waters with trades.


#101 Mon, 10/27/2008 - 10:50pm


Thanks to everyone for sharing!

Bill, Rambo, Mulus etc... very generous. It is especially encouraging to see all the wonderful work from the "backyard boat builders".

Rambo, your test panels look super strong. What type of wood did you use? What was the thickness of the wood initially w/o glass (read as: is that safe!)? Did you do the vacuum bagging process on your own at home?

Could someone comment on the different aspects of design that affect performance/speed? What are they and what are the general effects that manipulating each will produce? I am not sure what all those factors may be but I'm thinking along the lines of:

Rocker
Width @ waterline
Roundness/V-shaped
Length
Other

Or if that is too much, a good resource to consult about these topics?

Biba taotao tasi! (Celebrate the people of the ocean!)


#102 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 1:48am


Haggan, the western red cedar strips were 5mm x 20mm (3/16 x 3/4), when sanded to fair on the outside, thickness would be 4mm or slightly less. Stations have to be extremely accurately aligned when using strips this thin, as sanding to fair can thin out the wall thickness too much in places. (another reason why i like glass inside and out )

The timber stripper canoe is extremely strong once the monocoque shape is complete, a strong back is optional, except under the seat area and foot well.

One of the best ways to learn and discover little tricks is to build a 1/4 scale model first, you then have a fantastic piece to put on show in your house, it's not wasted.

Cheers Rambo


#103 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 1:52am


.


#104 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 1:51am


Rambo,
that is an exellent feedback, to make a model in scale before you actually make your canoe, i never did that and there was a slight difference from the computer 3d design to what actually i ended up building, so i had to re-shape the plug wich was a lot of hours..........

so as you recomend, to make a scale model is key, and i would love to have one in my house too!!!

always in da money Rambo!


#105 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 3:41am


Mulus, "a bit of moisture in N. Van", lol, Yeah for 10 months of the year. The other two months sure are nice though.


#106 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 5:34am


if you were to experiment with these elements with a canoe ..
Rocker, Width @ waterline, Roundness/V-shaped,Length,

Rocker:
less would make it hard to turn moor would make it wonder

width:
moor could give you moor balance but a slower canoe and less a faster tipper canoe..

length:
moor could give you speed and harder to maneuver more weight. and less you would be able to maneuver better but less speed and a lighter canoe.

i don't know about the V shape but I heard round canoes are fast as a through line.well than our flat bottom canoes but our elders would tell use a little flat area for planning under where you sit.

if you wanted to make an original design you could start with taking the top five singles and use the average length width etc.then you know you are in the ball park maybe even the infield. My wife asked for an original so I took a folder like the office people use and free handed a shape.and a original was born I kept that station and still have it. then down scaled slightly station by station till I got to the end of the canoe.Just a tip when all you have is stations and no strips yet, take a 4 ft' level and place it on your station.and it should rock like a teddy tauter and it should be equal as the other side or the canoe at the same place on the other side. this is a way to find bumps before you put the strips on. also throw a tarp or some Polly over the stations and tighten it and you can see your canoe before you put the cedar strips on. the point of no return.
also careful not to make your strips to thin . as you could lose rigidness thus speed.but then again to thick would mean to heavy canoe and slow...... I'm rambling, sorry guy's.I digress


#107 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 5:55am


Bill,

Never would have thought of that, but definitely makes sense. We were just planning on steaming out the stern...so a steersman can fit back there. Thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it turns out.


#108 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 7:12pm


Sloughcanoe,
Please do.


#109 Tue, 10/28/2008 - 8:43pm


Anyone have an estimate for how much wood it would take to build a full V6? Optimum strip length for the project? I'm assuming the fewer amount of strips used overall is the objective, lending to greater hull strength and less flex?

Mulus thanks for the input - however I would have thought that more rocker equates with easier turning and and less tracking. Am I misunderstanding your post?

I imagine that a more pronounced V shape in the hull would make a canoe track better, but does it necessarily mean decreased speed?

Night gentlemen.


#110 Wed, 10/29/2008 - 1:15am


yup, soryy bad english but that what I meant. skiped out to much when I was young to go paddling.


#111 Wed, 10/29/2008 - 9:24am


mulus, haggan,
What you describe re canoe rocker, width, length, V, etc., is basically accurate. However, every trait you include to give you a certain advantage, ie, more rocker to turn faster, you take away from some other feature. It's all a give and take. The degree or amount of each trait, has a direct bearing on all other traits incorporated in to the hull design. Too much of one thing, takes away too much of another trait. The blend of all traits to accomplish the performance you want out your canoe is the key.

Take Moloka'i Hoe as an example since most of us are familiar with its conditions. People say it is a "downhill" race so a lot of rocker is preferable for surfing purposes. Only half (approximately) of it is surfable. What about the other half and your canoes performance there? Does that increased rocker help, hinder, or have no effect on the canoes forward mobility on that non-surfable half?

I contend, that a canoe which performs admirably during all segments of the race is the one that will get you to the finish in the shortest time.

To answer haggans question whether pronounced V means decreased speed. Absolutely not.


#112 Wed, 10/29/2008 - 5:25pm


Rocker is overrated in canoes, especially six mans. With all that length, you aren't going to fit in many troughs anyway, and isn't it the flat area of the hull that provides the waterline and thus the speed? I'm basing my opinions mostly on surfboard design. Rocker is handy for dropping in to steep ones and making sharp turns, but not as useful for down the line projection and speed, right? I mean, it's not like you need to do many roundhouse cutbacks on an oc6.


#113 Thu, 10/30/2008 - 5:46am


You're right, Jim. A certain amount of rocker is necessary in order to make the OC-6 efficient when on the swell. And it could detract from down the line and speed. On our regatta course, we're making up to five roundhouse cutbacks, 180 degree turns. Some think the canoe executing the fastest turn is the best canoe to be in.....false.


#114 Thu, 10/30/2008 - 5:56am


Rocker is actualy the main variable in the six mans as the lenght alone is more than enough for the speed they make so the main focus is reducing the drag
The fact is the six mans move at speeds where frictional resistance is the greatest factor ,wave resistance comes second.

So if i would design a V6 it would have a lots of rocker and small weted surface.

One thing that might suprise most is that fastest design might just end up shorter than current boats which might already be to long for the speeds they are reaching.


#115 Sun, 11/02/2008 - 12:43pm


If speed is the object and friction/drag is a large impediment to higher speeds, would it be possible to attach or design into the shape of an ama, a small hydrofoil to lift the ama higher out of the water as the canoe moves forward?


#116 Mon, 11/03/2008 - 9:41am


OC1 Driver-
This sounds like a really good idea, and would probably reduce the drag and friction substantially. The one thing I would watch out for though is what constitutes an outrigger canoe. If you hydrofoil the ama and it's out of the water, is it still an outrigger canoe? I can see if you have the balance on an OC1 to paddle with the ama out of the water, but if you mechanically induce the ama out of the water, it might technically no longer be an outrigger.


#117 Mon, 11/03/2008 - 10:09am


If you really want to go faster, just put more seats in the canoe. Some of the outriggers canoes of old Hawaii were reported to contain up to 12 paddlers in a equivalent 40ft canoe. They were able to obtain speeds up to 11 - 12 MPH in 800LB+ dugouts.

Rambo


#118 Mon, 11/03/2008 - 11:25am


up the structure. stiffness equals speed and they make them out of polyester. and roving. which is stiff but high tech core, and 400 pounds of course.And it would be moor stiff and faster. I'm guessing.


#119 Mon, 11/03/2008 - 1:42pm


Just noticed I missed answering some of your questions:

Hiro,
I used 7oz. glass on the inside of my strip canoes b/c it's what I had handy in the shop. I knew the canoes were going to be light anyway, so using 4oz. in lieu of 7oz. wasn't much of a worry for me.

haggan,
Using 2" wide strips, it would take about 1,300 lineal feet of material to build yourself a 43' strip canoe. About 1,350 lineal feet for a 45'er.

The longer the lengths, the faster the canoe goes together. But long lengths for a one-man-operation is hard to handle. A lone builder could more easily handle 10-12' lengths.

The glass will give you the hull strength you need.


#120 Tue, 11/04/2008 - 6:18am


Hello Bill
on this little solo I'm working on I only glassed one side and used Marine paint on the other side 3 coats. and it only 30 lbs. I am still putting it together so that's not the total weight .but its a good 6 lbs or lighter than the last one. exciting

Thaks Bill


#121 Tue, 11/04/2008 - 10:29pm


Thanks for the info Bill.
I will soon try to build a ama.
I should stop thinking about what I can do wrong and start to work :-)


#122 Tue, 11/04/2008 - 4:17pm


Follow your dreams, Hiro. The journey is great!!

Keep up the good work, mulus.


#123 Tue, 11/04/2008 - 10:34pm


been a while ,this was my fav' line. just wouldering if anyone is building?


#124 Wed, 07/14/2010 - 10:27am


Still waiting for NZ to end restrictions making the use of one design from one manufacturer mandatory.


#125 Wed, 07/14/2010 - 11:21am


Sounds like Canadian car insurance. No freedom.


#126 Wed, 07/14/2010 - 1:25pm


Building an OC-6 fiberglass at present.....would rather be building one of wood.


#127 Wed, 07/14/2010 - 8:04pm


New design Bill,???


#128 Wed, 07/14/2010 - 9:56pm


No...my 'O'o design.


#129 Thu, 07/15/2010 - 6:42am


just read thorugh this entire thread. WOW!
this stuff is mind blowing! Thanks all for the info. Its great to see all this knowledge freely shared. To go off what the original post said, "if it were that easy....."
seriously, I would love to tackle this stuff. When I work up the nerve, a little scaled model is in order. I got the bug after watching that open class race of the Pa’a Eono Hoe race on OC16. I love what the Kamanu comp guys did and that livestong is a sight to see but what really caught my eye was what looked to be a V6 inspired wood strip canoe that was briefly seen as they were getting the race started.


#130 Sun, 07/18/2010 - 4:33am



#131 Sat, 09/18/2010 - 7:32am


pretty ingenious way to create a clamp. tie planks together with a string then pound a wedge in for tension... awesome.


#132 Sat, 09/18/2010 - 9:45am


Polynesians, including Hawaiians, all built plank canoes (wa'a humu) utilizing this method. Once cured, the sennit was then tightened. Note the diameter of the sennit fit perfectly in the hole so that once completely sewn, the sennit served the additional purpose of calking to make the hull water tight.

Another methodology to accomplish the same is to place a small log (say a 4 x 4) across the gunnels and under the hull. Loop a rope around both ends, place a stick in the center of the loop and twine (spin) the sticks simultaneously on each side "clamping" down both sides evenly. Wedge the stick against the hull to keep it from unwinding, wait for the glue to dry, then remove.


#133 Mon, 09/20/2010 - 5:57am


This is something I have contemplated trying my hand at for a couple of years now. Is there a way to procure plans for strip building an unlimited canoe? Or is it just a make your own and see if works type of thing?

I have Kayak foundry a have worked up a hull for a six-man, but being a complete novice on canoe building, I am not sure what works and what wouldn't.

Any thoughts? Mahalo.


#134 Wed, 09/22/2010 - 8:03am


pushing that topic up...
nice re-read.


#135 Fri, 11/19/2010 - 1:42pm


@ Bill,
Have you built using this wood (falcata) ?
http://www.hear.org/starr/images/species/?q=falcataria+moluccana&o=plants
http://www.catgen.com/gospelhouse/EN/100000141.html
What would be the thickness of the strips with falcata ?


#136 Fri, 11/19/2010 - 1:54pm


Finished Product:)


#137 Fri, 11/19/2010 - 5:00pm


Hiro,

I've built a dug-out OC-6 from an albizia falacata log. I haven't built one with strips.

The thickness of the strips would depend on what weight you want the va'a to be when finished. Tahiti's requirement being 150kg, or 330lbs...I'd estimate falacata strips would have to be approximately 5/8" thick. This is assuming a fiberglass deck. If a falacata deck, perhaps 1/2" would suffice.


#138 Fri, 11/19/2010 - 9:08pm


Wow ! fast answer !
Thanks Bill, now I need to convince some friends to go and cut some trees !


#139 Fri, 11/19/2010 - 9:52pm


V6 may well be hiding in that tree...
Look well at the pic. My wife is standing close to the tree. It gives you an idea of the size of that log.
We plan to cut the tree and make some 2" planks next saturday, then leave it in a shed to dry.

What woud you use to treat the wood against fungus and insects while drying ?


#140 Sun, 11/28/2010 - 10:26pm


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