Underwater camera housing

In case you are interested in the camcorder underwater housing please have a look. This is the first model and will likely undergo some minor changes, such as getting a handle, adding a camera hood, some rubber for shock damping just in case. I used acrylic to be able to use the infrared remote control. Many people use PVC, I don't think it is any cheaper overall. Total cost: $ 30.

The design is quite simple. Acrylic can be cut with a saw, or better scored, and then be sanded to the final shape. The only thing that you need to make is the disk-shaped end plate - no problem with a little patience.

Buy the parts on Oahu:

ACE hardware for the plug $ 7.85
Min-Plastic ( King/Dillingham ) Acrylic tube - $ 34/ foot
Min-Plastic Special glue and applicator - $ ~ 8

Picture and description:

http://www.oc1design.blogspot.com

Submitted by eckhart diestel on Fri, 01/02/2009 - 7:39pm



Ecky, your eyes must have lit up when you saw that plug at the hardware store, saved you a lot of work.

I've modified the Torch housing now so that it will mount on a mono pod or my Fig Fig Wheel. All the connections to the cam go thru a seal-able port so now the cam is fully protected from salt air. Need to add a simple mechanical button to press the power on/off button and it's complete. Just a bit of added assurance against possibly scoring a "cowboy " Jet Ski Driver who takes a sharp turn while I've got two hands on the Cam wheel and i take a swim....hahaha

Cheers Rambo


#1 Fri, 01/02/2009 - 9:24pm


It would be nice to have glass in front of the camera instead of acrylic.
The torches here are just too small to get the cam with the LCD open in there. I tried to operate the camcorder with the lid closed - it works when you start it an keep it running, but when you stop it and close it, it won't wake up on the IR signal.

The lid works well. The outer diameter of 4 inch is a touch more than I would like.
A square acrylic housing would be smaller.

It is fascinating how well the capillary welding works. I have never seen anything glue that perfect and easy.


#2 Fri, 01/02/2009 - 11:09pm


Leave the LCD closed then turn on the power, the green lite stays on. Insert into housing and use the remote.

Or disable the LCD micro switch.

Cut a hole in the acrylic and glue glass over the hole.

Better still, buy a 52mm adapter ring, glue it on, then screw on a 52mm clear uv filter.

Rambo


#3 Fri, 01/02/2009 - 11:19pm


Next version likely square acrylic housing with adapter ring.


#4 Sat, 01/03/2009 - 12:29am


eckhart,
Great housing.

Do you have a picture of the housing with the camera in it?


#5 Sat, 01/03/2009 - 9:36am


Oc 1 Driver - not the best picture - webcam - but it gives you the idea:


#6 Sat, 01/03/2009 - 4:19pm


Ecky, did you leave room for a wide angle lens?? If not you can use one of these clip on type, they only add 1/2 " to the length of the cam.

http://www.amazon.com/Raynox-303-QC-Converter/dp/B00009UTK3/ref=pd_bxgy_...

Cheers Rambo


#7 Sat, 01/03/2009 - 4:28pm


Have you thought about heating the acrylic tube in a tub of water placed in an oven to soften it up? Then forming it into a rectangle to better form it to the camera. Of course you'd have to redesign the end plug.


#8 Sat, 01/03/2009 - 4:57pm


Rambo. measure twice, cut once ... need a different length.
How much would a regular wide angle lens add ?

With a 52 mm adapter on the front plate, would a wide angle lens fit behind that adapter ?

OC1 Driver - do you have experience with this ? What temp for 0.125" acrylic ? I did it with regular plastic and hopelessly overheated.


#9 Sat, 01/03/2009 - 5:43pm


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