The only way to learn this seems to be by doing it.
Karel Jr says in one of the videos that he detects a pattern in the ocean pretty soon after the start of a race.
I can imagine that there is such a pattern, and what it could possibly be like, but as I do not see it, I don't know.
Is there something like a 'beginners guide' to learning how to read the water, iow what advice can experienced paddlers give to beginners - what should we be looking for ?
Submitted by eckhart diestel on Sat, 01/24/2009 - 10:18am
ive seen patterns before, but usually i dont see them, i'll just notice that i'm surfing like two bumps left and one right every once in a while without dropping too much speed in between the waves. and if i notice it i try to key in on that. and the ocean is always changing so like you might key into one particular pattern for 2-3 miles, and then when the pattern changes sometimes i get a little fustrated because i cant key in on the new pattern. and i think sometimes the water will have no real system, like in choppy water. like it seems that i can key in on a little bit but maybe it changes too much for me to notice.
and i'm not a super experienced paddler or anything that is just something i've noticed
now jr. i think he is just a talented waterman that plays close attention to the water, and has a good idea of what it's doing, and going to do.
#1 Sat, 01/24/2009 - 11:03am
For some paddlers they lucky, for they automatically get whole language skills for read the water. They have the ability for use that part of the brain that can pick it up fast. For the rest of us, we need phonics for help us, so we hang back, follow and cover our competition. Watching all the time for who appears to have the best line: should I go inside or stay outside. I guess a lot and sometimes I'm lucky, but most of the time I just zig left and zag right trying for find the run because, even if you think you found it, it no last. So it is a round robin out there, for some can read and some no can.
#2 Sat, 01/24/2009 - 11:14am
I would start by looking at your regular training route. We have a flat piece from our harbor to our breakwater. The first thing we read is when the next motor boat comes by so we can catch the wake, hopefully all the way outside :) After that there are distinctive areas with different water conditions. There is always a backwash from the breakwater leading straight out. Once you catch it. you look everywhere for it, because it lets you surf straight into and through the swells. Further out that pattern diminishes. When we turn to head home the question is always Northside or Southside (of the break wall)? Usually after the first 5 minute piece it becomes clear. The larger waves may favor one side but most often it ends up in the other direction because of smaller bumps coming from a different (ie.left rear) direction. Those little ones are the ones I look for because they carry you along the face of the bigger one and when they peter out you take the larger one against (off) the grain, because it will lead you through the lull between the smaller ones. We also have small zones where it's always a little calmer (maybe a drop in the ocean floor) and the pattern goes out the door only to resume once you are through. As we get closer to the wall the backwash works against and for you. When it piles up and you are on the back of a trough I relax, no reason to waste energy, because I know the same pile in a few yards will steepen my takeoff and give me a good run. None of this I do perfect, but that's what I've learned.
I know my local pattern first. From there you see similarities in other locations and adapt. Most of the time my eyes are out of focus to see the big picture and it lets me concentrate better on the periphery where the pattern evolves, or changes.
#3 Sat, 01/24/2009 - 12:04pm
great topic. wish more paddlers would respond so us rookies can learn what you see. i know nothing replaces time on the water but just to hear from the experienced paddlers and what to look for or feel and then once on one how to stay in one or look for another one to move to.
#4 Sat, 01/24/2009 - 3:15pm
Nothing anyone can say on here will be able to help anyone new to the sport learn to read the water or find patterns to much. TIME ON THE WATER is by far the best way to learn to read water. Watching videos of other people surfing and kinda seeing when they apply the power and back off may help a bit to but anytime you can put on the water is the most valuable for this. Paddling a rudderless boat also helps in my opinion as you kind of have to read the water in order to anticipate which way your gonna get pushed etc...
#5 Sat, 01/24/2009 - 3:32pm
painteur - your pattern, how large of a field are you talking about, yards ahead or 100 yards ahead ?
We can try a list of 'no-no':
let hull speed drop too much
go for large waves when hull speed is low
lean on ama
shorten reach
get hasty, splash with paddle
drop in too steep
outrun wave
bury nose
head down/look on the bow
use rudder much
...
This is what I am trying:
keep the bow of the canoe close - within 3 - 5 feet - to the crest of the wave in front of you while paddling at an angle to the wave direction.
The area beyond the bow - the back of the wave that you are following - has a dark reflection, aim at that; the darker, the deeper and the more the speed potential of that bump.
That angle varies with hull speed: at average speed - ~ quater the wave, at high speed - ~follow the wave and a low speed - quater the wave at a ~shallow angle.
So far I am doing that wave after wave but it does not often amount to a 'trail of bumps' yet. Location dependent: Hawaii Kai run is easier than outside Kailua Bay.
It feels ok, but also as if I am not seeing the larger picture.
#6 Sat, 01/24/2009 - 4:55pm
When it comes to big wave ridding I'm the biggest rookie. But there is a few things that could help. it would be great to see a nautical map of said area to see how deep it is and where. and in the daily paper they have tide and wind predictions . you could even google tides to see how fast they are rising and when. but the few times I was in a good down hill run I remember seeing a trail in the bumps.
Also get to said area ahead of time to get a few runs in to get a feel for the water . I always thought it's not a bad idea to show up early and introduce yourself to said waters, listen to the wind. read it in the stars. and ask the canoe gods to help you kick @ss.
#7 Sat, 01/24/2009 - 4:26pm
My field starts at 0-10 yards ahead and as soon is I'm on the bump it goes 20-30+ yards ahead. The reason is that I don't try that hard to catch the first wave of a set, because the trough after the first is much better defined. That allows me to take off with the goal of catching or going around the first one. Once you're over that one, it, or it's neighbor will move you at max glide and the range extends beyond 30 yards and I switch to "wide-angle scanning" for the link-up way left or right. I think your speed determines the distance of successful forward scanning. I'm not surprised Jr scans 50 yards ahead. If I had his speed I'd have to scan 100 yards ahead for lack of his experience.
It's precious when it all works for a moment. And again I wish I could do it all the time.
nb1376 I totally agree with "time on the water"
There is one more thing for beginners. I got better at reading water once I was comfortable going left (ama high) on a steep wave with the intent of surfing. If our ama were on the other side I'd recommend the same thing for going right on a wave.
#8 Sun, 01/25/2009 - 11:04am
Are you scanning for the highest crest, wave direction 20 - 30 yards ahead ?
I am usually scanning for troughs and those I can't find too far ahead, I am rather scanning in a 10 yard range so far.
#9 Sun, 01/25/2009 - 11:58am
the ocean is never the same and the conditions/bumps are never the same. im not sure about a certain pattern for certain runs, but you will definately start to recognize types of bumps. short/fast moving, long/groundswell moving, and what direction they are running as you paddle in your run. you can also learn how much effort you will need to go for bumps. some you can just cruise in and others you will need to work.
#10 Sun, 01/25/2009 - 12:26pm
I'm scanning for the troughs as well. It's just once you're past the set you caught, they aren't that pronounced but you are still on the downside of the incline maintaining momentum enough to get in front of the next wave which ideally comes from behind the trough you are aiming for. That's where I feel the longer distance scan pays off.
#11 Sun, 01/25/2009 - 12:31pm