hauling ur oc1

howzit,
new to sport, just scored a cherry looking Kolea, I have a 4door civic with yakima racks that i use to carry my surfboards with. My ? is. Is it safe to haul my canoe on this setup? Should I tie the front of canoe to bumper? Need your help..
Big Mahalos....Omilu7

Submitted by omilu7 on Wed, 06/03/2009 - 7:47am



Carry it upside down resting on cockpit coaming.
You only need four Yakima canoe brakets+ some padding.
A span between pedals and back of the seat depending on design of your canoe should be suffitient.
I do not even use tie-downs, I use Smartstrap.

Ama rests on foam blocks that snap-fit on bars
and is tied down w/Smartstrap which hook fits nicely
around Yakima bars as well.


#1 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 10:29am


Even better, invest $219.00 (+ shipping) in a Burnham Boat Sling and haul your cherry OC-1 in style with good support. The span between bars on a Civic is gong to let the OC-1 wiggle way too much which will probably cause damage on anything longer than a 5 minute drive to your put in.

I wouldn't tie down the the bow or stern to bumpers like you would with a kayak or regular canoe, I think given the distances you would run the risk of cracking your hull if the lines were over tightened.

This question is asked enough it should be part of the Intro to OC-1 Paddling article. Oh wait, it is. ;-)

Also, Jibofo, sorry for stealing your thunder about Burnham, but you convinced me to buy one. And they are also cheap for what you get, especially compared to similar setups (I checked around last year and found one for over $400).


#2 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 10:52am


Take a look at KayakPro's Ez-Vee Deluxe.

The Burnham Sling is designed to carry your OC-1 upside down. I wonder what that does to the rudder and rudder cables.

The Ez-Vee carries it rightside up.

http://photokayaker.fit2paddle.com/C1440587403/E20070330105744/index.html

The Ez-Vee mounts on Yakima and Thule crossbars.
~~~~~~~~~~
YankeeHo'okele
"Anyone can steer the ship when the sea is calm" - Syrus Publilius


#3 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 11:20am


yankee,
My OC1 fits either way on the Burhams. Usually carry it upside down. Don't think it makes any difference.
anowara,
Good to have someone else who knows how good these are. Got to get Burnham to start paying us.


#4 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 11:25am


From Yankee's link:

V shape carriers despite of a foam can deform more flexible hulls. It is quite visible in the case of my Kevlar Sisson Nucleus. After two years I see some cracks on a gelcoat. I do not observe this problem in stiffer carbon/kevlar hulls.

So it will depend on how stiff the hull of your boat is whether the V-cradles will be okay or not. I think on one of my boats it would be okay, on the other definitely not.

I don't have any experience with racing kayaks (K1s), but I know sea kayaks are typically heavier and more durable construction than a typical OC-1. I think I would still take the Burnham Boat Sling over this, especially since the base price is about $50-80 cheaper depend on what model you purchased. Still, the Ez-Vee looks pretty cool.


#5 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 12:11pm


The guy to talk to is luke does anybody remember the set up he had on his civic.


#6 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 4:15pm


Try Thule Slipstream

KimoHanalei

The cure for anything is salt water - sweat, tears, or the sea.


#7 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 5:08pm


If your rack system is strong there shouldn't be a reason to tie bow to front bumper, plus there's likely no place to attach a painter to boat.

If you already have racks and they are spread apart on roof as far as possible (without bottoming out on roof in between racks), the system I like best is using home-made cradles cut from Minicel foam.

You want something made of firm, but soft material that "cradles" the shape of hull right-side up without denting it. These boats are stong on water and very delicate on land. The hull is stronger than the deck, that's why I orient boat deck-up.

Shape foam to match hull at the locations of each rack when boat is balanced on roof-rack. You can then tape blocks on (or leave unattached) and put boat on top. Use your surfboard straps to and loop through rack, tighten and go.


#8 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 5:39pm


The Burnham Boat Sling provides only minimal surface area to support the canoe, which increases the possibility of deforming the hull if carried upright, especially in hot weather. Another consideration is the stress on the rack due to side winds, and the long lever arm of the Burnham mount. Just this past winter I saw a Mercedes affected by just such a circumstance. A side wind caused the clamping mechanism of the rack to deform and let go, allowing the rack to slide across the top of the car. Just something to think about.

I modified my Yakima Rack to accommodate my 27ft tandem, and my 21ft single, two mounts. The canoe mounts are positioned under the iako mounts, the strongest part of the canoe. The mounts are large, with a lot of surface area, helping to prevent the deforming of the canoe. Additionally, the Yakima rack works very well with my 14ft ama, that will not fit inside the vehicle. And, I was able to do this modification for a lot less than the cost of a single Burnham mount. I can still load my bike too!

Hope this helps....


#9 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 5:39pm


shamu
Because the Burnham carriers are 8' apart there is very little need to crank down on your straps like for a carrier with closer spacing. Plus the boat rests on a sling that conforms to the hull shape. Mo betta than a rigid carrier that has a larger surface area. As for the long lever arm, think about it, the lever arm is the length of your canoe, not the carrier.


#10 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 6:57pm


from burnham's site:

Single Shell Rack System: $219.00
(2) 14” Narrow Cradles, 8’ AluminumRail, and Mounting hardware

but remember, you still have to get the thule or yakima racks to attach the sling to. so you are looking at the cost of the sling and the plain old racks.


#11 Wed, 06/03/2009 - 9:21pm


Thule Set-to-go kayak saddles - $90 per pair, you need two, $180 total

I don't own an SUV and I really want more distance between my cradles. Let me head over to McMaster-Carr and see what I can find. Hmmm, well I guess this will do…

Aluminum bar, 6 ft length, 3" x 2" cross section, 1/4" walls, $87.97 + shipping

This aluminum bar is the same cross section as what Burnham uses, but two feet shorter. I still need to buy mounting hardware and figure out how to mount my cradles on my extension. Maybe Thule makes a rack extender but I couldn't find one at REI, Amazon, or a couple other sites I checked.

Anyway, right now, without shipping, I'm at $270 (approximately) and I still haven't purchased tie down straps, mounting hardware, or even tested my setup. Long story short, Burnham is a ridiculously good deal and proven for hauling very expensive boats.

Shamu
I don't really see how your setup is any different than the Burnham (or any other potential rack extender). You would still be vulnerable to the mount at the cross bar failing like in your Mercedes example. It's hard to tell from your photos, but your extension bar looks to be pretty similar to what Burnham is using (or any of the other manufacturers of boat slings, and there are a few).

I've tried the Thule cradles and found they are too wide to effectively cradle my canoes. This was without an extender and at the widest part of the boat, so it would be worse with an extender.

Omilu7, whatever you choose, just make sure you test your setup before going on a high speed romp to your favorite put in. Plenty of options to fit a variety of budgets and you'll find something that works for you.


#12 Thu, 06/04/2009 - 7:56am


mahalos everybody!! now to choose which one.


#13 Thu, 06/04/2009 - 10:24am


I just wanted to share a couple of racks I've had built. They've been mounted on a Honda Odyssey, but the reason for them was similar in that I felt the factory racks were too close together. These racks allow me to adjust the distance between the saddles up to 8 feet.

The ones under my Fusion use old fire-hose as the saddle (though I found the coarseness of the hose left tiny marks) and hold the boat rock-solid. I built the other set to accommodate any type of boat (OC-1s and OC-2s). In this picture the cross bars have been moved in to support my wife's C-Lion directly under the iako attachment points. It was flat, and I figured it would be a strong part of the boat.

As you can see, it's a bit over-built. But I'm freaked about losing a boat on the highway. I know the factory rack will likely be the place to fail if anything. But at least I've done all I could do.

The Fusion rack cost about $300 canadian. I haven't got the bill for the second one yet, but I suspect it will be less. I'm sure if I build any more they'll be cheaper still as the first one took some extra "tinkering".

This forum is a great place to share ideas, and if anybody could think of an easy way to pad the metal parts of the rack that would help. I'm trying to not stick anything onto it permanently, as it'll just degrade in the sun and get brittle. But I would like something that slipped on and off the cross bar easily. I'm also looking to cover the metal "gull wings" of the fusion rack to protect the boat when I'm loading/unloading.


#14 Sat, 06/06/2009 - 2:17pm


wow, 300 bucks for the whole rack... pretty good kahuna! the thing looks bomb proof too. i'm going to have to go down to royal metals and see what they have. pretty sure i could build the same thing for my scion Xb since i've all ready got the thule stock racks on it.


#15 Sat, 06/06/2009 - 4:34pm


Here's a rack that I've made for my GTI. I've made these for other people also. Fit on Thule or Yakima bars w/ U bolts. I've found a place where I can buy the aluminum stock (square, hollow "bar") and flat bar. I bend the flat bar on my vice. I then put padding and nylon straps to "cradle" the hull and prevent pressure points. Material costs me around $80 U.S. including stainless steel hardware. I make them about 7 foot long. They work great. I hope the pix attach. I'm working on a new Mac and am a bit clumsy w/ it.


#16 Sun, 06/07/2009 - 7:21am


hell yeah drewp, 80 bucks! i figured they could be made cheaper if you do it yourself. my xB is definitely getting that set up. although i may make the cradles a little bit lower than yours. still, looks great!

nice job on the construction.


#17 Sun, 06/07/2009 - 1:03pm


Hey drewp I love the antler look. Quite the "rack" for a GTI. Looks like your GTI can do some serious rutting in both directions.


#18 Mon, 06/08/2009 - 8:39am


Nice setup drewp, just as simple as kahunas aluminum one and both look like they've been manufactured instead of home-made.

Kahuna, you could just do something like what drewp did with just duct taping some foam insulation tubing to your "gull wings" edges. If you want to pad the whole thing, try buying a foam exercise/yoga mat and cut enough to wrap the top and edges and secure with duct tape.


#19 Mon, 06/08/2009 - 10:08am


The foam I used was pipe insulation bought at home depot. When I flattened it, I was able to slide it down over the aluminum bar w/o cutting the seam. I put the tape around to secure it just in case the seam ripped. The first few racks I made didn't have the high sides "antlers". I later had an OC2 blow sideways in a crosswind off of a rack. Besides better strapping, I thought the high sides might keep the boat from being blown out of the cradle. So far..so good. Like Kahuna mentions, I feel the first place for rack failure is going to be the rack on the car.


#20 Tue, 06/09/2009 - 2:04am


Kahuna said:

This forum is a great place to share ideas, and if anybody could think of an easy way to pad the metal parts of the rack that would help. I’m trying to not stick anything onto it permanently, as it’ll just degrade in the sun and get brittle. But I would like something that slipped on and off the cross bar easily. I’m also looking to cover the metal “gull wings” of the fusion rack to protect the boat when I’m loading/unloading.

You might be able to find a hose or rubber inner tube that's big enough to slip over the various metal pieces and tight enough it doesn't move around too much.

You could also just find something to wrap around like rubber sheeting and secure it with zip ties.


#21 Tue, 06/09/2009 - 5:50am


New custom rack! I call it the okole rigging system.

front rack is a hand me down Thule that I bought the feet for. Feet were $45.

Added custom made 2 x 2 wood to Thule racks for added width: $5

rear rack is made out of two iako tubes purchased for $45.

rear rack extended with custom made 2 x 2 wood for added with: $5

wood secured to metal parts with old bike inner tubes, free at local bike shop.

racks padded with scrap pieces of seat foam, also free.

truck was $1900

total price for racks including vehicle = $2,000

average price per canoe held on rack (5 boat capacity) = $400

price for rack $100, or $20 per canoe.

other facts:

1) handles speeds of at least 50 mph with 20 mph head winds
2) spread between anchor points 7 feet.
3) can be used as fire wood
4) rear bar is 100% aluminum for easy recycling
5) will happily make custom for any vehicle for $300.*

(*production times may vary as hand me down parts become available)

alt text


#22 Fri, 06/12/2009 - 8:21pm


That is quite the ratio- $2000 truck and rack carries $20,000 in canoes.

If you happen to roll over into the ala wai is the inverse true?
it almost looks do-able...


#23 Fri, 06/12/2009 - 10:36pm


you are correct novice c. no matter how you analyse them, the Okole Rigging System racks (ORS for short) are simply amazing.


#24 Sat, 06/13/2009 - 1:40pm


Here you go:
http://www.huki.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14

Also, he sells foam pads that glue onto Yakima Mako saddles. He also sells red socks that fit over the stern and have a drawstring where the cord goes between your hull and rudder. Neat! I have the Mako saddle with the foam.
Whatever you do, don't leave the straps snugged on your rack. The sun takes a toll and people have had straps fail. Carry an extra strap or two in your paddle bag.

Also, good idea for windy days.... surfboard bungee straps. Set these up so you can temporarily secure your boat to your rack Quickly!! Then you have time to get the straps going. Set the bungees up before you head into the water so they are ready as soon as you are.

Ideas from experience seeing boats blow off racks and boats get damaged on racks by makeshift arrangements where people try to save money but have a $4k boat!


#25 Mon, 09/21/2009 - 12:13pm


Please register or login to post a comment.

Page loaded in 0.192 seconds.